Bandhavgarh Land of Tiger

Words can be written about this magical paradise accolades come and go but the memories stay forever. Nestled in the Vindhya Hills Bandhavgarh was an erstwhile kingdom of Maharajahs of Rewa. But at these enchanted forests, it was the Gonds that first stepped foot and built the fort dedicated to Laxman Lord Ram's brother hence the name.  The historical turbulence saw many warring dynasties ruling the place in the annals of history. The fort is now in ruins but some artifacts, reservoirs, idols of Lord Vishnu and structures are in a state of preservation.  An exploration of tabletop mountain encompassing the Fort will put you in a trance but unfortunately, the area is closed for tourism. But one must visit Sesh Shaiyya or the reclining Vishnu idol on the way up to the fort.

All along the Tala Range, one can see historical structures, especially on the Bandhavgarh Mountain at 800 plus MSL. The famous Fort, Ram Laxman Janki Temple, and the Reclining Idol of Lord Vishnu are situated here. 

Once part of a contiguous patch of forests encompassing both Satpura and Vindhya Ranges - their confluence is at Maikal Hills in Madhya Pradesh - the tiger reserve is now isolated due to frequent denudation and ravage. Maikal Hills are home to Amarkantak and Achanakmar biosphere reserve and the famous Kanha National Park weakly connected.

The National Park and tiger reserve and Panpatha WLS comprise of 1536.7 square kilometers with  716.46 designated as core and the rest as buffer.

Though the floral composition is vastly similar in these Sal-dominated forests Bandhavgarh terrain is unique with mesmerizing beauty.  The unique feature is the steep hills or cliffs and tabletop mountains. Small mountain streams of rivulets are plentiful that create marshy grasslands as they intersect the plains in the valleys. Most of the rivulets like Charanganga are perennial forming an important lifeline of the ecosystem.

The Gondwana Rocks mainly comprise sandstone, the sand is mainly sandy loam with a sprinkling of silica. The rugged topography encompasses Sal, mixed, and bamboo besides a plethora of herbs and shrubs usually found in the niche.  

The tiger is at the top of the food chain while another tertiary predator is the leopard, other carnivores are dhole, jackal, fox, rusty spotted and jungle cat so on. The sloth bear along with wild boar are omnivores albeit they do not predate but have been seen on carcasses frequently. The detrivores are Egyptian, White Rumped, and Indian vultures the latter two being critically endangered.

The antelopes present are the Nilgai, Four Horned Antelope, and Indian Gazelle. The deer family comprises of Sambar, Chital, and Muntjac or barking deer.  There are two primates commonly seen here they are the Gray Hanuman Langur and the Rhesus Macaque. 

Small mammals are chiefly nocturnal and a night drive can yield the sight of toddy cats, small Indian civets, large civets, and porcupines. 

A tiger safari that encompasses passage through inclining and steep elevations is stunning and driving is a test of skill. Though the animal in focus is the tiger, nonetheless the sight of the sloth bear, panther, and bison is equally exciting. 

The marshy grasslands and the ecotone are the focus of those on excursions as the big cats prefer to hunt in these habitat patches which hinder the movement of the prey.

Bandhavgarh offers a unique opportunity for nature photography with an enchanting panoramic background. Winters are rich with hues of strong colors and background greenery nonetheless all seasons in this National Park offer a unique panoramic background to the lensmen. 

The park is closed during the monsoon but tourism in the buffer is on. In order to reach BTR one needs to fly to Jabalpur in MP and then drive four hours. An overnight train from New Delhi halts at Umaria about 32 km from the park. The destinations can be reached from various rail heads and towns nearby. The park is well connected to Khajuraho Temple Town and Kanha National Park all in Central India. 

   

Commercial Forestry & Research in India

In need of environmental protection, and protecting niche habitats for other forms of life, it becomes imperative to keep an eye on the commercial exploitation of our forests. During the British Raj German-born Dietrich Branids was appointed as the first Inspector of Forests.    

Later on, in the year 1864 went on to establish the Indian Forest Service, and subsequently the Indian Forest Act in 1865. Water protection and wildlife also came under the purview of this act. The Indian forests were then classified as  Protected, Reserved, and Village Forests. The amendment Act 1927 adds another category to the listings namely Private Forest.    

Under the Act unauthorized quarrying, poaching and illegal tree felling were punishable by fine or imprisonment. 

The Forest Research Institute at Dehradun in Uttarakhand was set up in 1906 as Imperial Forest Research Institute by the masters. This Institute has been at the forefront of scientific study and development of forestry in India.  Through the Indira Gandhi National Forest Academy training is provided by its forest officers.  

In 1988 Indian Council of Forest Research under MOEF was established. This is an umbrella organization for various training institutes and research centers in India.  In 1991 FRI was accorded the status of a deemed university. 

The Indian Forestry Act was the beginning of the organized exploitation of timber in India during the Raj. There was an urgent need for Sal and Teak woods for various commercial purposes hence tree felling by villagers was prohibited in the reserved forests. This era also witnessed mushrooming of tea and coffee plantations at the cost of precious ecosystems.     

In spite of the formation of organized structures and scientific research exploitation of forest wealth (read timber) has continued unabated and could be termed as reprehensible. The single-species plantation and clear felling point out to severe lack of understanding of ecosystems and the fragile web of life. Overpowered by greed, the plunder of our forest wealth continues to this day. Commercial felling constitutes one of the major environmental disasters that the country is facing. 

Albeit recent reports in India point out to marginal growth of area under forest cover the effect is nowhere visible. FAO estimates a forest cover of twenty-two percent in India, but do the surveys point out to the status of the forest cover?

In order to classify as a healthy ecosystems, the forest crown cover should be robust. Some of the tiger reserves and protected areas in the country stand out as fine examples.      

In 1953 the government nationalized forests and minor forest produces bringing in complete control over what is termed as a National resource. It was during this period that large-scale clear felling and takeover of forest and niche habitats like grasslands for agriculture and settlements for fast-growing populations took place.  

As the disastrous impact of denudation dawned upon me, the greater impetus was placed on afforestation. Eventually, social or community-based forestry was introduced in India.  This was not only to prevent deluge and soil erosion but it was also aimed at fulfilling the huge demand for wood and wood-based products in India. 

Although there was significant success in community-based forestry in some states these were pure of commercial interest and had no impact on the improvement of the environment, and could not sustain wildlife altogether. This merely resulted in the industrialization of forest produce as a result of mass-scale production - this certainly is not conservation by all means.    

Thankfully, the clear feeling has been halted in the country and is replaced by felling selected ones which are classified as old or degenerate. There is under the purview of local state governments. 

Nevertheless, the country strives for increasing the forest cover and an amount tantamount to a staggering 6 billion dollars plus has been assigned for this purpose in the year 2015. The bill has been tabled as Compensatory Afforestation Fund Bill.    

The approach may sound sincere, but there are many hurdles that afforestation faces. There is a lack of a comprehensive mechanism for the implementation and supervision of the whole exercise. This is further aggravated by the misutilization of funds, corrupt practices, efficient methodology, prevalent lethargy, and lack of sincerity.  

The exercise could be meaningful if the forest lands affected in the past, and those diversified for alternate commercial interest are brought under the purview. The country has faced abject failure as far as compensatory afforestation is concerned.   Read CAG Report. 

Bandhavgarh - Tiger Safari in the Buffer Zone

The buffer zones in the tiger reserves have been created for the protection of critical tiger habitats inside the core zone. Well, they do just that but for how long. The sordid state of affairs in most of the reserves in India is denuding the remaining forests in the buffer zones. All natural lands are being consumed by burgeoning humanity and rapid urbanization. Perhaps tourism in the buffer area would protect and result in preventing further denudation. I think all tracts of natural lands should be developed for tourism or some such purpose that would justify their existence.     

The biggest reason for the sad plight of tigers in India has been the bounty killings during British Rule. This was followed by the rapid conversion of natural lands into agricultural fields. The third big reason was large-scale culling (hunting) by the dignified lot during British Rule and equally vehemently in the post-British Era.

Most of the butchers are now dead not having contributed to India in any manner whatsoever and many have been the satraps of the British Empire making them rule this country with a handful of sahibs.  

*Mention of British Rule has historical connotation and just that.  

Tiger By Teerath Singh

The Legacy 

The destruction of the amount of natural land especially the forests has been appalling in the country. All that is left are small pockets with limited capabilities they are just larger than zoos.  The harbinger of rights is going to be the next big cause of the demise of the striped hunter if idiotic legislation is passed transacting our protected areas. I believe the forest rights bill could be it albeit I have not gone through it. The status is so depleted that there is no room even for rectifying historical injustice as portrayed.      

Populist measures are an interplay of democracy... its the vote bank... we will have to teach tigers to vote.  Or let's vote on behalf of tigers for those who actually care for our environment holistically and preserve it in practice.  

The Chinese threat looms large... I mean the medicine mongers here. Will we be able to save our tigers? Well, the rise in numbers is encouraging but then euphoria dies down as it did during the Project Tiger period. The number of big cats is critically low and they need larger protected areas devoid of human settlements and totally inviolate. All the sanctuaries should be vacated with full compensation, well protected and ecosystems regenerated. This should happen in the field and not just on paper.      

Anyway, opening up of buffer zone for tourism in Bandhavgarh and Kanha will open up this area. More people will be able to go on tiger safari. This will also mean greater attention to this neglected ecosystem   

Tiger tourism at Bandhavgarh National Park

With the highest density of tigers in India Bandhavgarh tiger reserve is most popular tiger tourism destination. The reserves offers best wildlife watching and highest tiger sightings in the World. It also offers unique sightseeing of ancient temples, fort, man made caves and stables.

The tiger preserve is situated in Umaria District of the State of Madhya Pradesh. It is under the aegis of Project Tiger Program that aims at conserving the Bengal Tiger in India. The preserve in home to many wild mammals beside the big cat. 

BTR as it is known is good place for wildlife watching and birding. The park and its wildlife have been filmed many a times in recent years hence the popularity. Till seventies and eighties the preserve was not that famous but occasional big cat photographs and the electronic media helped discover the paradise. The forests are home to some of the magnificent Male Tigers pictures of whom have found place on first page of major Indian newspapers. Tourism has increased at a rapid pace since then and thousand of visitors come here to have a glimpse of the elusive big cats.

Home to humans hundreds of year back the tell tale sign of old civilizations still exist.  The Fort is a testimony to that besides number of temples, man made caves and statues of Lord Vishnu. One comes across plenty of ancient ruins while on safari in the park.

Bandhavgarh is beautiful park enhanced by 32 hillock which form narrow glens inundated by rivulets and marshy grasslands. The panoramic splendor is breath taking in this land of the pristine forests and tiger.l 

Indian Wildlife

Documentation of Indian Natural history goes back to the Vedas. The growth of Indian natural history in the modern era is due to the keen interest shown by the British rulers. India with its diverse landscape, fauna, and flora caught the eye of the British naturalists many of whom were in administrative service while serving in India.

The Vedas are the earliest record that lists the names of 250 species of birds besides notes on various fauna and flora. The Vedas mention brood parasitism in Koel. The method of capture, taming and eventual training of wild elephants in India was documented in a text dated 2000 years back.

The fauna and flora of ancient India are represented in clay potteries and tablets excavated from ancient civilizations. The protection of animals and forest conservation was first recorded in the Mauryan period, especially during the period when Ashoka became a Buddhist and relinquished royal hunting.

Among Moghul rulers hunting and falconry were regularly practiced and the kings took a keen interest in the documentation of nature Jehangir and Babur being the foremost. The notes from hired scribes during the Moghul rule indicate the wide range of many animals which are now locally extinct in those areas.

During the British Raj, Indian Civil Services employed British naturalists many of whom studied Indian natural history out of curiosity while other collected wild species for naturalists and museums in Europe and Great Britain. Unfortunately, the destruction of forests and hunting went on a large scale by Indian princes and British royalties. As a result, the lion was reduced to a small pocket in Gujarat and the India Cheetah became extinct. The precarious state of the Indian tiger is a result of indiscriminate poaching and habitat destruction.

During the British rule and post-independence period Bombay Natural History Society has done commendable work on Indian natural history by studying and recording nature and wild animals in India. Society is engaged in productive activities and nature conservation as well.

India records around 1300 species of birds including sub-species while there are more than 300 mammalian species. The list of reptiles and insects including butterflies is also very impressive. Due to the influence of various zoo geographical zones Indian wildlife is unique.

Many wild species in India are threatened with extinction and wildlife itself survives in badly fragmented pockets. The tiger is one such case where the population has decreased to a few thousand from estimated forty thousand during the British Raj.

Most of the flora and fauna in India now survive in tiger reserves, Indian National Parks and sanctuaries scattered all over the country, and contiguous forest belts are rare and diminishing. For tourists wildlife safaris at the conservation areas, NPs, and tiger reserves are the best way to see the tiger and other Indian wild animals.

Most of the National Parks and wildlife resorts have tourism zones for tiger safaris and bird watching. These are popular for tiger sightings, wildlife photography, and watching wild animals like deer and lesser carnivores. The most popular reserves in India are Corbett National Park, Ranthambhore, Kaziranga, Manas, Kanha National Park, Bandhavgarh also Pench in Central India.