Sleepy Tigress and Low Speed Elephant Ride

Sat Tal - Uttrakhand

Nainital District - India

Jungle life is always exciting but it has many facets. Recently on a visit to Sattal and Corbett with guests from Auckland I had an amazing experience of wilderness in the foothills of the Himalayas.   

Sat Tal or Sattal is a geological formation of seven freshwater lakes that are incredibly clean. The periphery of the lakes and adjacent areas are much preferred for searching the avian wonders that abound. Situated at a height of 1400 MSL the township in Uttarakhand is more of a holiday resort. Hence the majority of the visitors arrive here for fun and frolic in the cool confines of the Himalayan foothills. 

The destination is also visited by birders like us. Albeit the construction is rampant resulting in damage to many natural places there are still hot spots for birding present. Sattal is home to many species along with altitude migrants that arrive here depending upon the cold in the upper reaches of the mountains.    

Himalayas

Chir Pheasant

Gharial

Grey Faced Woodpecker

Koklass Pheasant

Wild Elephants

Wedge-Tailed Green Pigeon

Green Munia

Photo Credit: Hari Lamba 

On a good day, one can see many species of bulbuls, woodpeckers, barbets, shrikes, thrushes, warblers, laughing thrushes, sunbirds, drongos, flycatchers, forktails, dipper, pheasants, passerines, raptors.   

In the cold climes, the hands and feet become numb and it challenges your sensory apparatus.  But the amazing bird-watching experience puts paid to the cold. 

After a fabulous bird tour we descended to Corbett Tiger Reserve. The safaris were arranged by our host a guide who owns a small guest house called Sparrow's Nest.   

Our first tiger safari took place in Bijarani Zone. This is a densely forested zone with long stretches of rivers and grasslands that are home to many wild animals.  It was in this area that we managed to locate a tigress that had crossed over from the mountain to the river bed and eventually lay down to rest in the grass. It was after some time that we realized that the big cat was quite near to us. With a lot of effort, we could have a glimpse of it lying down asleep

Tigress by Teerath Singh

. But before we left the tigress came out in the open and then quietly melted away in the dense grasses.

The next day our game ride was in Jhirna a picturesque zone with a lot of tiger activity. Here we were able to see elephants, notably a mother with a calf crossing the road. The rest of the trip was spent on searching for the tiger without any results.   

The evening was slated for a search for the forktail at Kumeria and then a ride on an elephant back. We saw a spotted forktail as well as many birds like long-billed thrush, brown dipper, redstarts, and yellow-bellied fantail.

The birding over we left for Ramnagar and on to the pachyderms back. The ride was anything but exciting as we crossed over the Kosi River and unto the forests on the banks. For my guest, this was his first ride on the elephant back. Not too pleasing an experience as the pace was slow and there were no signs of the tiger. However hard the mahout tried but the elephant was in no mood to budge at a greater pace.  

After an hour's ride, we departed for the guest house where we spent the night. The next day we left for New Delhi. 

Kids Nature Trail - Pariyat Lake Jabalpur

Catch Them Young

These are photographs of School Children Nature Trail  a program for conservation education and initiation into conservation by DFO Jabalpur Mr.H.S.Mohanta. Avidly involved with the programs Mr. Mohanta regularly organized nature trails for many schools. His efforts brought awareness of environment among many many school children and the teachers.      

I was part of many such nature trails and loved interacting with the children of all ages. This was my contribution if not much to create nature awareness among the children. This event took place in 2013 March. 

Bird watching was the main activity to initiate them into admiring nature and hence love and respect it. The DFO Office kindly provided the children with good quality binoculars. Refreshments were served at the end of the event.

Picturesque Pariyat Lake near Jabalpur is famous picnic spot harboring marsh crocodiles, wetland birds and wildlife in the surrounding forests.

Lecture

Lecture

Starting The Trail

Pariyat Lake

Bird Watching and Understanding Nature

 

Bandhavgarh Buffer Zone Tiger Safari in Pictures

Bandhavgarh Tigress

Buffer Zone Tiger Bandhavgarh

Cubs

Tiger Safari Bandhavgarh

Tiger Family

Tiger Walk

Yawning Tiger

Tiger on Walk

Tumbling Tigers

Tiger at Buffer Zone Bandhavgarh

Tiger Walk

Tiger on The Road 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                              

Three Buffer Zines have been created outside Bandhavgarh Core or Tourism Zone. Despite the apprehension, many tourists have started enjoying the buffer safari. The only negative aspect is the appearance of livestock and villages. Nevertheless, dense pockets of forest in between make the safari eventful with sightings of tiger, slot bear, panther deer, and so on. the open patches should be a disappointment as one can come across animals like chinkara, wolf, hyena, and nilgai which prefer these ecosystems.   

Of the three places chalked out for tourism Panchpedhi is more popular with its high density of forests and thickets. This is at a distance of 20 from Tala comfortable the zone is connected to Khitauli and Panpatha Zones/Ranges. The National Park has three tourism zones in Core Area namely:

Tala
Khitauli
Magdhi

The buffer zones are extensions of the above-mentioned zones.

In the tiger reserves, gate entry fees for buffer zones have been reduced through jeep safari charges are equal to the core zone tourism.

*Photo Credit: Teerath Singh ..MP Tiger Safari Company

Bandhavgarh - Tiger Safari in the Buffer Zone

The buffer zones in the tiger reserves have been created for the protection of critical tiger habitats inside the core zone. Well, they do just that but for how long. The sordid state of affairs in most of the reserves in India is denuding the remaining forests in the buffer zones. All natural lands are being consumed by burgeoning humanity and rapid urbanization. Perhaps tourism in the buffer area would protect and result in preventing further denudation. I think all tracts of natural lands should be developed for tourism or some such purpose that would justify their existence.     

The biggest reason for the sad plight of tigers in India has been the bounty killings during British Rule. This was followed by the rapid conversion of natural lands into agricultural fields. The third big reason was large-scale culling (hunting) by the dignified lot during British Rule and equally vehemently in the post-British Era.

Most of the butchers are now dead not having contributed to India in any manner whatsoever and many have been the satraps of the British Empire making them rule this country with a handful of sahibs.  

*Mention of British Rule has historical connotation and just that.  

Tiger By Teerath Singh

The Legacy 

The destruction of the amount of natural land especially the forests has been appalling in the country. All that is left are small pockets with limited capabilities they are just larger than zoos.  The harbinger of rights is going to be the next big cause of the demise of the striped hunter if idiotic legislation is passed transacting our protected areas. I believe the forest rights bill could be it albeit I have not gone through it. The status is so depleted that there is no room even for rectifying historical injustice as portrayed.      

Populist measures are an interplay of democracy... its the vote bank... we will have to teach tigers to vote.  Or let's vote on behalf of tigers for those who actually care for our environment holistically and preserve it in practice.  

The Chinese threat looms large... I mean the medicine mongers here. Will we be able to save our tigers? Well, the rise in numbers is encouraging but then euphoria dies down as it did during the Project Tiger period. The number of big cats is critically low and they need larger protected areas devoid of human settlements and totally inviolate. All the sanctuaries should be vacated with full compensation, well protected and ecosystems regenerated. This should happen in the field and not just on paper.      

Anyway, opening up of buffer zone for tourism in Bandhavgarh and Kanha will open up this area. More people will be able to go on tiger safari. This will also mean greater attention to this neglected ecosystem   

A Kill in Making

Leopard Safari at Kanha National Park 

It was one of those days when you have a tough time deciphering calls. We were on a tiger safari in the Sarhi Zone whence we reached the Saunf Meadow. We had just crossed over the Siliyari Waterbody and were moving further. At the Saunf meadow, we encountered frantic calls of the langur.   

The monkey was up on the tree facing towards the road to Sarhi. The calls continued for a very long time aided by other langurs now and then. But we could see and hear nothing...the alarm was strong and continuous.  We waited in expectation for a long time and looked all over near and far but no big cat was in sight.

Normally frantic calls mean a moving cat which also means a sure-shot sighting. Well almost! The guide had lost all hope and urged us to proceed in order to maintain timings.

"We will return via this road while turning back", I said to the guide. "Worth investigating", he affirmed. So we continued through the magic landscape of  Sarhi Zone inundated by the mesmerizing Sulkum River. 

After an hour or so on the return, we slowed down and searched. The calls had ceased, but anyway we were proceeding slowly since the area Saunf Meadow is often visited by the tigers. Two safari jeeps passed us nodding their head in disappointment which meant nothing exciting behind.     

It was going to be a dull day I thought as we continued.

Well, not. "Stop," shouted the guide.

Move back he instructed the driver much to the amazement of my foreign guests staying at Courtyard House Kanha. For there sprawled on the rock was a full-grown leopard in bright sunlight looking straight at us. WoW!

I looked back to see if the jeeps were still near us but they had sped away on their way. The leopard...shy predator? No way he sat on the rock sprawled like a cool cat. After some time he moved toward the ground and stretched.   

He then sat down majestically and looked at us menacingly disturbed perhaps by our presence at such close quarters. Then much to our surprise, he began to move in the grass barely visible at times. It was amazing how the big cat could perfectly camouflage and easily loose itself  amidst the short crop grass. 

Leopard in Grass - Credit Teerath Singh

The game of hide and seek continued as the leopard moved toward a pair of spotted deer. Totally unaware of death at close quarters they continued to graze merrily on the edge of the jungle road. Another jeep had joined us with loads of noisy holidaymakers.

We are going to witness a rare hunt, a moment of our lifetime. Feeling highly excited we were barely able to contain our tongues. The brilliance of the acrobatic grace of the creature had us totally mesmerized. Cameras clicking was all that made the sound. 

The graceful cat would crouch and then move forward excruciatingly slow. I could see the path it chose all the time keeping it in hiding. What a drama I whispered to the guests.  

The hunt was perfectly on the leopard had crouched to about ten feet from the unaware deer.  And then! Woof!

From the other side of the road, a noisy Bolera jeep belonging to the forest department came towards us approached the deer, and manage to scare them away. The game was over. The abject disregard for what was happening was nothing new. With due respect for the conservation efforts, many times the forest staff is disregardful and rude towards the tourists and totally unmindful of their activities.       

The vehicle sped past at good speed disturbing the hunt and a hungry leopard who vanished from sight.  

Many times I think mannerism is important and the chauvinistic attitude towards tourism becomes evident in the tiger reserves. Proper behavioral code is as important for the tourists as it is for the departmental staff. I have noticed this lacuna on many occasions regarding the latter.  

Hari Lamba Bird Guide & Photographer

Hari Lamba scales the peaks of Himalaya Foothills in Uttaranchal and Nepal. Well, he is not a  mountaineer but a bird guide and at the top rung at that. In my birding tours in Northern India, I got acquainted with Hari Lama as Indiafootprints Company had hired him. I work with Indiafootprints as a tour leader.  

Hari Lama's birding knowledge is astounding as far as Northern India is concerned and his Nepali accent and subtle humor keep birders entertained on long and arduous mountain treks looking for the avian wonders. 

The bird guide also indulges in photography whenever he gets an opportunity. Here are some of his images for our readers. 

Cheer Pheasant 

Cheer Pheasant

Great Himalayan Kingfisher

Female Sunbird

Gharial at Chambal River Sanctuary

Green Munia

Gray Faced Woodpecker

Wild Elephants Corbett

Python

Koklas Pheasant

Naini Lake

Himalayan Bulbul

Pangot - Hari Lama with White Cap

Himalayan Foothills

Kainchi Dham Temple

Brown Fish Owl

Wedge-Tailed Green Pigeon

Siberian Bushchat

Wildlife Photography - Dr.John Mathai

Bengal Tiger

Dhole

Spotted Deer at Water

Jackal

Changeable Hawk Eagle

Paradise Flycatcher

Lesser Whistling Teal

Swamp Deer

Swamp Deer Male

 

 

 

Dr.John Mathai is an avid wildlife photographer who is enthusiastic at whatever he does. Time permitting he indulges in wildlife photography. As an amateur, some of his stunning work is displayed here.